Lust for Travel

Australian born and bred, I've lived in Paris and now London and blog about the great bars, restaurants, cafes and hotels I find on my travels so we can all avoid the tourist traps.

Email me: lust.travel at gmail.com

 

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Tuesday
Apr262011

On location - Greek Isle of Rhodes

The seaside village of Lindos is a rambling, touristy but pretty little place to take in sea views. The ancient hill top acropolis was closed when we visited yesterday but we still managed to get our full of quaint Greek-ness. The summer crowds have yet to descend on the place so the locals are still relaxed and setting up, a perfect time to visit.

Monday
Apr252011

Rhodes

I've escaped London to spend the plethora of bank holidays in Greece. It's the first time I've done an "all inclusive" deal and I must say the list of cocktails is pretty convincing. As is the endless supply of Greek salad, great espresso coffee and brandy. I'm a happy sunburnt lady.

Sunday
Feb132011

Pan wallah - a lesson in making pan

I'm in Bombay at the moment visiting family. We went for a drive and stopped along the way to get some pan. Pan is small parcel of spices and betel nut that is wrapped in betel leaf and chewed often after meals to aid digestion. The pan wallah's stand is accompanied by a large collection of spice tins, aromatic waters and a large stainless silver bowl of water to hold the betel leaves. I'm not a fan of chewing pan myself but I love the aromatic smell of a pan being chewed by my husband. It's a smell that always takes me back to the streets of Bombay.

The pan wallah we spoke to today was kind enough to let me take some pictures of him at work.



 

 

 

 


 

Monday
Jan312011

Sun, sea and fab cuisine in Sardinia

"Go left!" yelped my husband as I veered the car a little too close to the edge of the cliff and the sparkling blue sea below. This was my first attempt at driving in Europe and it was along the coastal road from Cagliari to Villaputzu through some of the most stunning ocean views Sardinia has to offer and it wasn't going well. It was a beautiful, winding road but my driving skills had not acclimatised and I was distracted by the views. We were on our way to the Agriturismo Marongiu in Villaputzu, a family farm that welcomes guests and serves up produce from the farm served up in good Sardo cuisine. 

We made it there safely, the Renault's wing mirror the only casualty from hurtling down Villaputzu's narrow lanes. On arrival we passed fields of goats wearing noisy brass bells and the farm's vineyards. We arrived to be greeted by an aproned Francesca, who was busily preparing dinner for the evening. She showed us through the farm's olive grove to our room and pointed us in the direction of the nearest beach. We quickly grabbed our beach towels and sunscreen but not before being instructed to be ready for dinner at 8. 

Dinner is served on a long communal table on the verandah of the main house, we were seated next to Francesca’s mother and father who still actively work on the farm. Our young waitress, a family friend, served us a bottle of chilled canonau wine made with grapes from the farm’s vineyard and a dish of antipasti, the highlight of which was a large chunk of the farm's own pecorino capra. Salty and strong in taste, it crumbled in your mouth.  The wine was light and refreshing,  young and perfectly matched to the local cuisine. 
 
I asked Signora Marongiu in broken Italian who makes the cheese. She pointed across the table at her husband and I imagine she said something to the effect of “he does”. Dish after dish of Sardinian delicacies were brought to the table - malloreddus like baby gnocchi and cheese filled dumplings called culurgiones. 

The next morning we emerged from our room into the blazing September sunshine for a traditional Italian breakfast of freshly baked cake, home made orange marmalade and coffee served again in the shade of the veranda.
 
We had spoken to some of the other guests the night before who recommended the beach at Cala Pira, so we set off in the car. This beach is a Mediterranean gem of fine of white sand and crystal clear waters, it's popular destination but surprisingly untouched. It’s accessed by a rough road and the only amenities are a shack of a café serving draught beer and icecreams. We spent a lovely day sprawled out on beach towels, cooling off in the tepid sea.


 
That night we arrived back at the farm in time to share a glass of wine with our Italian neighbours and then headed up to the house for dinner. Francesca had promised she would put on some suckling piglet for me and there it was, in the open kitchen area, slowly turning on a spit roasting away. It was the delicacy porcheddu, a famed Sardinian dish. Dessert, coffee and the local liquor Mirto rounded off the meal. 


The next morning we breakfasted again on the verandah of the main home and headed off to another stunning beach. It was such a fabulous break, we could have stayed for much longer but inevitably had to find our way back to London. We're planning our next trip back though for another fix of wholesome food, warm weather, untouched beaches and overwhelming hospitality.

 

We stayed at:
Agriturismo Marongiu
S.S. 125 Km 72 - Villaputzu 09040
Cagliari - Sardinia
http://www.inyourlife.com/sardinia/cagliari/farm_holiday_198/welcome_eng.php

 

 

Saturday
Jan082011

The abundant wares of Brixton Market

When you think of Brixton, a number of images and associations could come to mind. It's played host to riots, David Bowie was born there and one its streets, Electric Avenue, was the first in London to boast electric lights. For me, it's the melting pot of cultures that come together in the markets around Electric Avenue. If you're visiting London do visit, it's unmissable for the eclectic mix of cafes, market stalls, cultures, sight, smells and sounds. 

 

 

When I first arrived in London 4 years ago my first pad was right in the heart of this bustling south London district. The press of the crowds, the reggae music and the sheer energy of the place astounded me. My favourite thing to do on a Saturday was to visit the bustling market for coffee, fresh fish, meat and vegetables. But you can find anything here from African textiles, to Indian groceries, very English homemade cakes, fresh chicken feet, linen, pots and pans. There are a number of serious wig shops that are very popular with the transexual and transvestite communities, shops that sell serious religious iconography and a very popular pizza bar, Franco Manca, with queues of always at least 20 people. There's also Rosie's, the much written about deli that does good homemade food. So it's got just about everything really. 

 

 

 

I live just down the road now and often go back to do a bit of shopping or just for a wander around. It's loud, in your face and smelly in some parts. It feels like you could be in a very busy port city anywhere in the world at times, the perfect place to lose yourself for a few hours.

 

 

Here are a few favourites:

Franco Manca

Unit 4, Market Row, London, SW9 8LD

 

Rosie's deli cafe

14e Market Row, London, SW9

 

Federation Coffee

Unit 46, Brixton Market, London, SW9 8PS

 

Wing Tai Supermarket

13 Electric Ave, London, SW9 8JY

 

Take your pick of the halal butchers and abundant fishmongers. I go by what looks good on the day.

 The shrine hidden away at Wing Tai.